April 28, 2021

"The first board I kind of created was in 1978 which became known as the Freeride Twin Fin, which there is a replica of the board on the right [points to board on wall] there.

I’m going to sound like a total ego maniac but I got it right first go. It went so good, I couldn’t believe how good it went.

Like it was fast, it was incredibly manoeuvrable, way more manoeuvrable than a single fin. It felt like I was going twice as fast. Im sure I wasn’t, I’m sure if you were sitting there watching it you’d be going ‘your going exactly the same speed as that guy on the single fin’ but it felt like I was going twice as fast.

The main thing was I just felt it made me so competitive in small surf because it felt alive and fast and I wasn’t scared if I got to an event and it was 2ft and onshore. Whereas before on a 6'8 single fin with a narrow tail I knew I was going to sink after the first turn.

I just went, I have got a secret weapon that after the first turn is going to keep going and go fast. So that was sort of how it all first started."