A shot of me at Waimea Bay, Hawaii taken in 1975 during The Smirnoff Pro

A shot of me at Waimea Bay, Hawaii taken in 1975 during The Smirnoff Pro event. It was 45 years ago & I was 18 years old. As you can see I wanted to do turns & not surf the wave in a go straight survival stance. It was only the second time I had surfed Waimea. The first time was in one heat the previous year when Reno Abellira won the event. For the visiting Australian & South African surfers we were obsessed with surfing Sunset beach, not Waimea. On Waimea sized swells I would fly to Maui & surf Honolula Bay. The board is an 8’6″ Round Pin Single Fin shaped by Tom Parrish. I can’t remember the exact width & thickness as dimensions weren’t written on boards in those days. My first heat this day was my first time riding the board. I won the event & never surfed the board again. It was a magic one day board. During those years Shaun & Michael Tomson, Wayne Rabbit Bartholomew, Ian Cairns, Peter Townend & Jeff Hakman all rode Tom Parrish shapes. Usually Round Pins, not Swallow Tails. I think Lance Trout took the photo. @thelostandfoundcollection @tomparrishhawaiiandesigns @bernie_baker1 @markrichardssurfboardsapparel @surfboardempire #waimeabay #smirnoffpro

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A shot of me at Waimea Bay from 1986 during the Billabong Pro

A shot of me at Waimea Bay from 1986 during the Billabong Pro. The board I’m riding was a Thruster shaped by Pat Rawson & is 8’6″ long. It had a baby Swallow Tail with a subtle flat panel Vee bottom and a tucked under hard resin edge running from nose to tail. Photo Paul Cohen @photogordinho @rawsonsurfboard @mauricioabreu @slimes_surf_skate #waimeabay #patrawsonshapes #patrawsonsurfboards

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Surfer Magazine posted this shot of me at Waimea Bay in 1986 recently, Photo by

Surfer Magazine posted this shot of me at Waimea Bay in 1986 recently, Photo by Rob Gilley. The accompanying story said, “It’s been 34 years since MR won an unprecedented 4th consecutive world title on a self shaped Twinny , the last time a pro has won a world title on a board they made with their own 2 hands & no one has done it since”. Just to get get history correct …. As the tour finished with the Hawaiian events I rode single fins in the contests there due to the size of the surf. So technically the titles were wrapped up on single fins. I did ride Twin Fins in all the events leading up to Hawaii. ( Australia, Bali, Japan, South Africa, Brazil , & Mainland USA ). For all of my titles from 1979 to 1982 I rode self designed & shaped equipment. As well as shaping I also did the color & all the glassing my contest boards. @surfer_magazine #markrichardssurfboards #waimeabay

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Waimea Bay, Hawaii a few days ago

Waimea Bay, Hawaii a few days ago. Re Post from Jason Magallenes @surfermags I know the scale of “big” has been readjusted with the surfing at “Jaws” on Maui over the last few weeks, but this is still a massive wave, it has to be at least 30′ ?? & must be close to being big enough to close out the Bay. For perspective on the size I’m guessing the guy trying to paddle over it is on a 10’6′ or even an 11′ board. Sorry I don’t know who the surfer is & I think Clark Little took the photo ? @clarklittle #waimeabay

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Darryl “Flea” Virostko at Waimea Bay during the Quiksilver Eddie Aikau event in 2004

Darryl “Flea” Virostko at Waimea Bay during the Quiksilver Eddie Aikau event in 2004. This photo has got to be up there as one of the heaviest wipe out shots of all time. Even though “Flea” didn’t make the take off you have to remember that this beast of wave appeared in front of him & instead of paddling over it he turned around & paddled into it !!! … I was at a trade show in San Deigo quite a few years ago with Matt Biolos & in the craziness of the registration area on opening morning we bumped into “Flea”, Matt spoke to him briefly & I just mumbled a “Hi”. I’d never met him & I didn’t realise who it was until he’d gone & Matt told me. I felt really bad for not recognising him & I’ve never forgotten the encounter. If I’d realised who it was at the time I would have had a major froth !! … I’ve got so much respect & admiration for all those guys from Santa Cruz who charge massive waves at Mavericks in ice cold water. (sorry, don’t know who took the photo). @fleahab @peter_mel @quiksilver #eddieaikau #EddieAikau2015 #waimeabay @mayhemb3_mattbiolos

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Waimea Bay, North Shore, Hawaii

Waimea Bay, North Shore, Hawaii. It’s amazing how most of the time this beach can look so scenically beautiful & totally safe. But it has a seriously dark side when the swell gets big. It goes all feral & Godzilla like, turning into one of the biggest rideable waves on the planet . When the swell is up the shore break alone would drown any one who wasn’t an experienced big wave surfer or an incredibly fit strong swimmer with a lot of ocean experience. #waimeabay

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