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About to paddle out for a heat during the Offshore Pipeline Masters in December 1982

About to paddle out for a heat during the Offshore Pipeline Masters in December 1982. I was riding a 7’4″ long Swallow Tail Single Fin with a flat panel Vee bottom. I shaped, sprayed & glassed it The Swallow was really narrow, I think it was…

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A shot of me taken during the Offshore Pipeline Masters in December 1982

A shot of me taken during the Offshore Pipeline Masters in December 1982. I’m kinda in the backside tube stance holding the rail on the shoulder !!!… I couldn’t have got any further ahead of the barrel if I’d tried. I just hope I…

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A photo of me at Pipeline taken 42 years ago in 1977

A photo of me at Pipeline taken 42 years ago in 1977. The board is a single fin round pin that I shaped in Hawaii in Dick Brewers room at Chun’s Reef on the North Shore. It’s 7’4″ long & 3″ thick. I can’t remember the…

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A shot of me taken during the Offshore Pipeline Masters in December 1979

A shot of me taken during the Offshore Pipeline Masters in December 1979. I was riding a 7’4″ long Round Pin Single Fin with a flat panel Vee bottom. I shaped, sprayed & glassed it. For my 3 board quiver for the Hawaiian contest season that…

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I posted an old photo from 1977 of me taking off at Pipeline recently

I posted an old photo from 1977 of me taking off at Pipeline recently. My body was positioned with both my arms extended behind me. At the time I never realised I took off like this. Since that post I’ve been sent some other photos where I’m in a…

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A photo of me at Pipeline taken in 1977

A photo of me at Pipeline taken in 1977. I have no idea how I managed to get my arms up behind me & above my head. I’m not flexible enough to do it now & I was never very flexible or super fit when I was competing. The board is a single fin round pin that…

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This photo by James Cassimus was taken as I was about to enter the water

This photo by James Cassimus was taken as I was about to enter the water for a heat in The Pipeline Masters in 1985. It was titled “Entering The Force Field” & was from a special edition of Surfer Magazine defining Style. Your head space in…

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A photo from the mid 1970’s of 3 of the greatest Pipeline legends, Jackie Dunn,

A photo from the mid 1970’s of 3 of the greatest Pipeline legends, Jackie Dunn, Rory Russell & The King Gerry Lopez on the beach at Pipeline in Hawaii. There are tons of images of these 3 surfers getting barrelled permanently burned into my memory…

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A shot of me at Pipeline in Hawaii

A shot of me at Pipeline in Hawaii. Re-Post from @bonzer_front Photo by Craig Fineman. I was stoked to see their post as I haven’t seen this photo before. I think it was taken in 1978. The board is a 7’4″ round pin single fin. From memory…

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Pipeline, North Shore, Hawaii

Pipeline, North Shore, Hawaii. Photo Bernie Baker. Bernie sent me this shot that he took of the sunset at Pipe a couple of days ago. It’s an epic photo. I’ve never been in Hawaii in April but I’m guessing it’s very rare to get a swell…

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