A 43 year old shot of me at Honolua Bay on Maui by Kirk Aeder

A 43 year old shot of me at Honolua Bay on Maui by Kirk Aeder. Im riding a 7’8″ Lightning Bolt wing pin single fin shaped by Reno Abellira…. Bernie Baker, Leonard Brady, Mark Warren, Bruce Raymond, Mark Foo, Bobby Owens & I left the North Shore at dawn on a massive Waimea swell & flew to Maui for 3 days. When I get asked about fondest career memories I think people expect a “contest win” answer. But those three days of epic surf with friends & a super mellow Honolua local crew more than happy to share easily tops the list. As well as being one of the best wave’s in the world it must also be one of the most scenically beautiful surf spots anywhere on the planet. I virtually surfed all day every day for 3 days flying back to Oahu completely sizzled & sunburnt. Some vision from this session features in Bustin Down The Door & Free Ride. @bernie_baker1 @thelostandfoundcollection @markwarrensurfs @renoabellira #bustindownthedoor #mr1976retrobustindownthedoor #mr1976retrobustindownthedoormodel

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